Private car sales offer good value but carry more risk than buying from a dealer. This checklist covers what to verify before you inspect, what to look for in person, and what to confirm before you pay.
Get Full History Check for $34Do this homework before you contact the seller or book an inspection time. These checks take 15 minutes and can save you from viewing cars that aren't worth your time.
Confirms whether there's finance owing, if the car has been written off, and whether it's been reported stolen. If any of these show red flags, walk away immediately.
The ACCC database is free and shows all open safety recalls for that make, model and year. If there are open recalls, the seller should have had them fixed. If not, that's a negotiating point.
Search Carsales and Facebook Marketplace for the same make, model, year and condition in your area. A full car history report shows actual sold prices, not just asking prices. Know if the asking price is fair before you call.
Ask the seller for the registration expiry. If it's expiring soon, the cost and hassle of renewing falls to you. For a private sale, registration status is your responsibility after purchase.
Every car has known issues. A 2010 Subaru Outback might have head gasket concerns. A Ford PowerStroke might have injector problems. Knowing these beforehand tells you what to inspect closely.
When you visit the car, these six physical checks take 20-30 minutes and reveal the majority of issues you need to know about.
Walk around the car. Run your finger along panel gaps. If gaps are uneven or paint doesn't match (especially on bonnet, doors or guards), the car has been in an accident and repaired. This doesn't mean don't buy it, but it's leverage for negotiation.
Uneven tyre wear suggests alignment problems or suspension issues. Inner wear on both fronts can mean worn control arm bushes. Outer wear can mean worn suspension. New tyres cost $600-$1200 for a full set.
Ask the seller not to warm the car up before you arrive. Cold starts reveal issues that warm engines hide. Listen for rough idle, unusual knocking, or excessive smoke on cold start. Some smoke on initial cold start is normal on diesels, but sustained heavy smoke is not.
Windows, air conditioning, heating, power steering, lights, infotainment system, central locking, sunroof (if fitted). These fail gradually and expensively. Window motors cost $300-$500 each. Air con compressors are $1000-$2000.
Get under the car with a torch. Fresh, shiny undercoating over rust is a red flag. It's meant to hide corrosion. Look for fluid drips on the concrete. A small drip can be a failed seal; active dripping from the engine or gearbox is serious.
Drive at highway speeds. Hard brake from 80 km/h to feel if brakes are soft or responsive. Do a tight turn to listen for suspension noise. Feel if the car pulls to one side. Listen for rattles, clunks or grinding. You're listening for what a mechanic would find.
Before you hand over any money, check these four documents. They protect you from buying a stolen car, a lemon, or a vehicle you can't register in your name.
The registration document must be in the seller's name. If it's in someone else's name, don't buy it. You cannot transfer a vehicle you don't have legal title to.
The 17-character VIN on the car's compliance plate, inside the door jamb, and on your PPSR check should all be identical. Mismatches are extremely rare but indicate a serious problem.
Service books, invoices or dealer records show the car has been maintained. Gaps in service history are worth asking about. A car with no service history for 5 years is a risk.
If the car has aftermarket wheels, lowered suspension, or engine modifications, these must be recorded on the vehicle registration. Undocumented modifications can cause registration issues when you sell.
Three things must happen before payment. This is non-negotiable for private sales.
A mechanic can spot suspension wear, transmission hesitation, electrical gremlins, and safety issues that don't show during a 20-minute test drive. It's the single best investment you can make before a private purchase.
Before buying privately, check the VIN against PPSR, search for recalls on the ACCC database, look up the car's market value, verify registration expiry, and research common problems for that make and model. At inspection, look for uneven panel gaps, tyre wear, cold-start sounds, test electricals, check for leaks underneath, and take a test drive including highway speeds and hard braking. Before paying, get a pre-purchase inspection from an independent mechanic and run a full car history report.
A PPSR check covers finance, written-off status, stolen flags, and registration validity. It does not show accident history, safety recalls, market value, service gaps, or mechanical condition. Always combine a PPSR check with a full car history report and an independent pre-purchase inspection from a mechanic.
A pre-purchase inspection is a detailed mechanical assessment by an independent mechanic. They check the engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, electrics, and overall condition. It costs around $200-$400 but can reveal expensive hidden problems. For private sales, it's highly recommended because you're buying as-is with no warranty.
Look for uneven panel gaps, mismatched paint, or fresh undercoating during inspection. A full car history report may flag known accidents. Run the VIN through a PPSR check to see if it was written off. Get a pre-purchase inspection where a mechanic can spot structural damage, welding repairs, or other accident indicators.
Run a full car history check before committing to any private purchase. Get market value, recalls, and price comparisons.
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